The Chyhyryn area is often called the heart of Cossack Ukraine. Within a few dozen kilometres there are sites connected with Bohdan Khmelnytskyi, the Koliivshchyna uprising and the haidamaky.
Kholodnyi Yar
Start the day at Motronynskyi Monastery, which stands in the forest tract of Kholodnyi Yar on the site of an ancient hillfort. Nearby are the tract itself and the oak of Maksym Zalizniak, one of the oldest trees in Ukraine.
Subotiv
Subotiv was the family farmstead of the Khmelnytskyis. See the Three Wells, the Khmelnytskyi castle site and St Elijah’s Church, built by the Hetman as a family burial place.
Chyhyryn
Finish in Chyhyryn, the Hetman capital: the fortress walls on Castle Hill have been restored, and next to them is the “Residence of Bohdan Khmelnytskyi” complex.
Tip: the route is designed for a car; the roads between Kholodnyi Yar, Subotiv and Chyhyryn are local, so allow time. Check museum opening hours in advance.
