Kamianka: the Tiasmyn canyon, the Decembrists' grotto and the town that inspired Tchaikovsky

Kamianka is a small town on the Tiasmyn River, not far from Kholodny Yar. It is less famous than Uman or Kaniv, but it has its own canyon and a curious history linked to Alexander Pushkin, the Decembrists and Pyotr Tchaikovsky. Most of its sights belong to the Kamianka State Historical and Cultural Reserve.

The Tiasmyn Canyon

The most vivid impression of Kamianka is the Tiasmyn Canyon. Granite cliffs 12–15 metres high rise above the riverbed very close to the town centre. It is a protected natural monument looked after by the reserve. Paths along the cliffs make for a pleasant walk, and the higher points offer views over the river and its old stone banks.

In the middle of the river stands Pushkin Rock; legend has it the poet wrote verses here during his stay in Kamianka in 1820.

The park and the Decembrists’ Grotto

In the town centre, on the bank of the Tiasmyn, lies an early 19th-century park known as the Decembrists’ Park. It preserves the Decembrists’ Grotto, an 18th-century structure where, according to legend, members of the secret society staying at the Davydov estate used to meet. Nearby is an old mill that is also linked to those gatherings.

The Green House and Tchaikovsky

The former Davydov estate houses a memorial museum of Alexander Pushkin and Pyotr Tchaikovsky, known as the Green House. The composer came to Kamianka regularly between 1865 and 1893, as his sister Alexandra lived here with her husband Lev Davydov, and he wrote many works here.

The town also has the reserve’s history museum and an art gallery.

Combining it with other places

Kamianka is a convenient base for Kholodny Yar: the Motronynskyi Monastery and Zalizniak’s Oak are close by. Cyclists often ride the Kamianka–Chyhyryn–Kamianka loop, and in summer kayaking trips down the Tiasmyn are popular.

How to get there

Kamianka is about 230 kilometres from Kyiv by road and 60 kilometres from Cherkasy. The town has a railway station on the Kyiv–Znamianka line, so you can get here by train.

Tip: allow at least an hour or two for the canyon. Evening light is best for photos, when the granite takes on a warm hue.