A day trip from Kyiv: Kaniv, a 12th-century cathedral and the mammoths of Mezhyrich

Kaniv is the closest town in the Cherkasy region to the capital with world-class sights, so it is easy to see in a single day. Here is a route that combines Shevchenko sites, Kyivan Rus architecture and one of the oldest archaeological sites in Europe.

Morning: leaving Kyiv

Kaniv is about 150 kilometres south of Kyiv. Set off early to arrive before the museums open and leave time for the journey back. If you travel without a car, you can get to Cherkasy first; from there it is about 80 kilometres to Kaniv.

First stop: Taras Hill

Start with the main sight, Taras (Chernecha) Hill, where Taras Shevchenko was reburied on 22 May 1861. Climb the stairs to the grave with its monument by Matvii Manizer (1939), then visit the literary memorial museum and Taras’s Svitlytsia, the poet’s first folk museum, built in 1884. Take your time on the viewing platforms: the panorama of the Dnipro from here is one of the finest in Ukraine.

Allow at least two to three hours for the hill. If you want a guided tour, arrange it with the reserve in advance.

Lunch and central Kaniv

Head down to the town centre. Here stands the Dormition Cathedral of 1144, Kaniv’s oldest stone building, built under Prince Vsevolod. Next to it is a museum of folk decorative art. Have lunch in one of the town’s restaurants and try dishes made with Dnipro fish.

Afternoon: Mezhyrich

Near Kaniv, in the village of Mezhyrich, lies a Late Palaeolithic camp of mammoth hunters. Archaeologists found four dwellings built of mammoth bones here; a single structure needed at least twenty mammoth skulls. The settlement is 15,000–17,000 years old. One of the dwellings is preserved under a pavilion. Arrange your visit in advance so you can also hear the story from a local guide.

Extra, if time allows

• A sunset walk along the Dnipro waterfront in Kaniv.
• For adventure lovers, a trip towards the Trakhtemyriv peninsula with views of the Kaniv Reservoir (better saved for a separate day).

Good to know

• The best time to go is May to October. In May the anniversary of Shevchenko’s reburial is marked, so the hill is busy.
• Wear comfortable shoes: Taras Hill has many stairs.
• Check museum opening hours before you travel, as they may change with the season.