Kholodny Yar: the forest of haidamaky, otamans and age-old legends
Kholodny Yar is a large relict forest between Chyhyryn and Kamianka, cut by deep ravines, with springs and quiet ponds. Yet it is famous not only for its beauty: for centuries these woods sheltered those who fought for freedom. No wonder the local insurgents’ motto was “Freedom for Ukraine or death”.
A little history
In 1768 the Koliivshchyna, the haidamaky uprising led by Maksym Zalizniak and Ivan Gonta, began right here; Taras Shevchenko later glorified it in his poem “The Haidamaky”. In 1918–1922 the Kholodny Yar Republic existed here, as insurgents held the area for years and refused to submit to Soviet rule.
Since 1 January 2022, the forest has been the Kholodny Yar National Nature Park, covering more than 6,800 hectares.
Motronynskyi Monastery and the hillfort
The main landmark of Kholodny Yar is the Motronynskyi Holy Trinity Monastery near the village of Melnyky. It has been known since the 16th century, and in the 18th it became the spiritual centre of preparations for the Koliivshchyna: Maksym Zalizniak spent time here. The Trinity Church of 1800–1804 still stands; Shevchenko painted it in a watercolour in 1845.
The monastery stands within the Motronyn hillfort, a huge fortified Scythian-era settlement dating back to the 6th century BC. Its ancient ramparts are easy to make out on a walk.
Not far from the monastery lies the Haidamaky Pond. According to legend, this is where the haidamaky consecrated their knives before the uprising.
Maksym Zalizniak’s Oak
Near the Buda farmstead, in the Kyrykivskyi ravine, grows the mighty Zalizniak Oak, about 24 metres tall. Legend says the haidamaky gathered beneath it, and folk memory counts its age in centuries, calling it the thousand-year-old oak. Lightning has struck its trunk several times, yet the oak still stands, and it is probably the most famous tree in the Cherkasy region.
What else to see
- The Taras Shevchenko monument in Kreseltsi (part of the village of Melnyky).
- Springs and ponds: Kholodny Yar has dozens of springs, some of them mineral.
- Underground passages: legends speak of entire labyrinths, but only some are documented, so do not go down without a guide.
Practical tips
Kholodny Yar is easy to combine with Chyhyryn and Subotiv or with Kamianka, as they are all close by. Cyclists have ready-made routes, such as Kamianka–Chyhyryn, passing the monastery and Zalizniak’s Oak.
The forest is large and mobile coverage in the ravines can be weak, so download an offline map and bring water and comfortable shoes. The monastery is active, so dress modestly and follow its rules when you visit.
